Peaks of the Balkans – guide, accommodation and stages
- Christian Sommer
- Nov 25
- 17 min read
The Peaks of the Balkans long-distance hiking trail is wild and adventurous: it leads through Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo, captivating hikers with spectacular rock formations in the karst mountains, magnificent views down into green valleys and the warmth and hospitality of the locals. You will hike through impressive mountain landscapes and charming places such as the Albanian village of Teth or Plav in Montenegro, always at an altitude of between 700 and 2500 metres. A genuine alpine long-distance hiking trail away from mass tourism – not particularly difficult and located in a region that is both historically and socially fascinating!
Content
1. Journey
2. Route
3. Accommodation
4. Weather and best time to travel
5. Further information
6. Recommended stages
7. Packing list
8. GPX and map information
9. Conclusion
Peaks of the Balkans
The Peaks of the Balkans trail stretches over 192 kilometres and around 10,000 metres of elevation gain. Over ten stages – from Teth via Valbona and back again – you will experience the most beautiful aspects of this region. You will hike along former shepherds' paths through the border regions, which have developed well thanks to hiking tourism. However, there is still no sign of mass tourism.
The ‘Peaks of the Balkans’ is well marked throughout, easily accessible and offers numerous places to stop for refreshments and overnight stays. It not only connects three countries, but also combines nature experiences with culture.
Info: The Peaks of the Balkans Trail was inaugurated in 2011 with the support of the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ), the German Alpine Club and local residents. The aim of this project was to provide local farmers with a second source of income, bring the participating countries closer together and promote peace.
Peaks of the Balkans arrival
Getting to the Peaks of the Balkans is very straightforward. The easiest way is to fly to Tirana and then take a bus to Shkodar. From there, take the next bus to the mountain village of Theth. The bus journey takes about three hours. Your tour starts in Theth!
Flight: You can fly to Tirana (Albania), Podgorica (Montenegro) or Pristina (Kosovo). From a logistical point of view, Tirana Airport is the easiest starting and ending point. To find cheap flights, I highly recommend Skyscanner – a first-class app that gives you a quick overview of the best flight deals.
Bus: To find a bus from Tirana to Theth, I highly recommend the OMIO app. The bus line is called ‘Alpar Turizm’. The bus departs from the Tirana Bus Terminal North and South Albania. You can find the timetable in the OMIO app or at: https://alpaturizm.com.tr
As always, I recommend watching a video about the tour:
Peaks of the Balkans route
The Peak of the Balkans route is generally easy to walk. I can't remember any really dangerous spots. The well-trodden, wide paths give you a pleasant feeling of safety. As always, I would strongly recommend using a GPS device for navigation.
Trail markings:
Albania: white-red-white
Kosovo: red-white-red
Montenegro: red circle with white centre
Difficulty: The difficulty is rated as moderate.
Remember to insure your trip well – because a fall or other typical hiking injury can quickly result in high rescue costs. Auras Insurance offers you worldwide hiking and trekking insurance, specially designed for active travellers.
Use the discount code HIKINGFEX to get 10% off your insurance.
Peaks of the Balkans stages
The Peaks of the Balkans is an impressive hike that takes you through varied landscapes in several stages. Each stage offers unique views of the mountains, valleys and villages in this region. The difficulty varies only slightly depending on the length of the route and the altitude difference:
Classic:
Stage 1: Theth - Valbonë (18km and 1100m ascent)
Stage 2: Valbonë - Çerem (10km and 600m ascent)
Stage 2a: Valbonë - Çerem via the Perslopit Pass
Stage 3: Çerem - Dobërdol (15 km and 1000 m ascent)
Stage 4: Dobërdol - Milishevc (18 km and 925 m ascent)
Stage 5: Milishevc – Rekë a Allagës (16 km and 890 m ascent)
Stage 6: Rekë a Allagës – Guri i Kuq (22 km and 1,235 m ascent)
Stage 7: Guri i Kuq – Babino Polje (15 km and 1,070 m ascent)
Stage 8: Babino Polje – Plav (21 km and 560 m ascent)
Stage 9: Plav – Vusanje (21 km and 1130 m ascent)
Stage 10: Vusanje – Theth (21 km and 950 m ascent)
Peaks of the Balkans accommodation
There are several accommodation options along the Peaks of the Balkans, ranging from charming guesthouses and hotels to B&Bs. You can book your accommodation directly here via my partner platform ‘Booking.com’ using the links below. It won't cost you a penny more.
What is the accommodation like on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?
Most of the accommodation on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail is in family-run guesthouses, also known as ‘Bujtina’. These range from upmarket accommodation that feels like a hotel to more rustic dormitories.
Starting point: Theth
Stage 1: Valbonë
Stage 2: Çerem
Stage 3: Dobërdol
Mountain hut+Camping Bujtina Leonard TEL:+355 68 676 7606
Stage 4: Milishevc
Stage 5: Rekë a Allagës
Mountain hut Pushimorja Hajla TEL: +383 49 678 668
Stage 6: Guri i Kuq
Stage 7: Babino Polje
Stage 8: Plav
Lakeside Camping - $
Stage 9: Vusanje
Stage 10: Theth
Peaks of the Balkans experiences
My experiences on the Peaks of the Balkans are as varied as the long-distance hike itself. Here is a rough overview of what you can expect on your upcoming tour.
Getting there:
Getting to the Peaks of the Balkans was very straightforward. I booked a flight to Tirana – a large airport with numerous connections to many European cities. Once I arrived in Tirana, I took a taxi straight to the bus station. From there, I took the bus to Shkodar. At almost the same stop, I was able to easily change to the connecting bus to Theth. I spent my first night there in a lovely guesthouse – including a delicious breakfast the next morning.
Stage 1: Theth – Valbonë (18 km and 1,100 m ascent)
What a magnificent start! I had glorious weather with a bright blue sky. Before setting off, I had to pay a quick visit to the police to officially check in for the trail – more on that in the chapter on Permits and border crossings.
Then I was finally on my way. With the GPS on my mobile phone, I quickly found the starting point. Shortly afterwards, I was already surrounded by an impressive green mountain landscape. Right at the beginning, you hike on one of the most popular sections of the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’ trail – past the majestic summit of Maja Valbonës. The view from the well-known viewpoint along the way is particularly impressive.
A small café invites you to take a break before I arrived relaxed in Valbonë at my nice accommodation in the late afternoon. Since I had booked all my accommodation before the start of the tour, I didn't have to worry about finding a place to stay in the evening – absolutely stress-free.
Stage 2: Valbonë – Çerem (10 km and 600 m elevation gain)
The next day also greeted me with glorious weather. The first part of the hike led through a green valley flanked by typical karst rocks on both sides.
Tip: In this section, you have the option of choosing an alternative route via the Perslopit Pass – you can find the exact route in the Komoot link. You can also take in the 2525m high Dobra Kolate summit, which is practically on the way. The path over the pass is classified as T3. The path over the Perslopit Pass is much more scenic, but also more challenging.
Çerem is a perfect place to relax and regenerate your tired limbs for the rest of the long-distance hiking trail.
Due to the long distance and the strenuous altitude, I would like to take this opportunity to recommend my ultra-light hiking gear:
I would also like to recommend my beloved Salewa trekking shoes because of the mountain and jungle landscape and the challenging mountain trails:
‘Give a woman the right shoes and she can conquer the world.’ Quote from Marilyn Monroe
Stage 3: Çerem – Dobërdol (15 km and 1,000 m elevation gain)
The next day started in fog. Along the way, I kept discovering raspberries and blueberries growing by the side of the path – delicious provisions straight from nature. After a while, I reached a plateau, the fog lifted, and suddenly a magnificent view of the surrounding mountain landscape opened up before me.
The rest of the hike took me along a narrow trail through dense forests, past small settlements and across flowering meadows. This varied backdrop accompanied me all the way to my accommodation in Dobërdol – spectacularly located in a secluded high valley, framed by mighty mountains.
"The sun also shines behind the clouds." Quote from Karl Friedrich Wilhelm Wander
Stage 4: Dobërdol – Milishevc (18 km and 925 m elevation gain)
The next morning, I saw bright sunshine again through the window of my accommodation. The stage started with a steep and strenuous climb up the hill – as a farewell gift, I was treated to one last beautiful view of Dobërdol.
The rest of the trail is like a fantastic high-altitude path that winds spectacularly along the mountain slopes to Milishevc – another highlight on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.
Stage 5: Milishevc – Rekë a Allagës (16 km and 890 m elevation gain)
The day's stage began with an ascent to a picturesque mountain lake. The trail then led downhill to Rugova Camp. The section to Rekë a Allagës is rather unspectacular, mostly running along and beside a road. In the evening, as usual, culinary highlights from the region awaited me – a real dream!
Stage 6: Rekë a Allagës - Guri i Kuq (22km and 1235m elevation gain)
The sixth stage was mostly at low altitudes, often through small villages and dense forest. A welcome change from the mountains. At some point, I reached a beautiful plateau with lush green meadows.
Don't forget to take an emergency bivouac with you. It consists of an emergency blanket that is cold-resistant, a whistle and a mini compass. It should be in your rucksack on every hike anyway.
As the old Scottish saying goes: "There's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes!"
Stage 7: Guri i Kuq – Babino Polje (15 km and 1,070 m elevation gain)
The next day, the trail led from Gur i Kuq steeply uphill to Lake Leqinat – a wonderful place to recharge your batteries and unwind.
I then hiked through dense forests again before the terrain became increasingly alpine and I finally reached the Jelenka Pass at an altitude of around 2,255 metres.
Another spectacular section of the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’: wide meadow slopes and a fantastic high-altitude trail with impressive views.
Stage 8: Babino Polje - Plav (21 km and 560 m elevation gain)
On a cloudy morning, I continued my hike and reached another mountain lake, Hridski Jezero. The lake is picturesquely situated in the forest and invites you to linger. The last stretch to Plav is relatively unspectacular compared to the rest of the long-distance hiking trail and drags on a bit. I used the time to clear my mind of negative thoughts, enjoyed the sounds of nature and admired the beauty of the surroundings with grace.
Another day ended in Plav with culinary highlights in one of the many beautiful restaurants.
Stage 7: Guri i Kuq – Babino Polje (15 km and 1,070 m elevation gain)
The next day, the trail led steeply uphill from Gur i Kuq to Lake Leqinat – a wonderful place to recharge your batteries and relax.
I then hiked through dense forests again before the terrain became increasingly alpine and I finally reached the Jelenka Pass at an altitude of around 2,255 metres.
Another spectacular section of the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’: wide meadow slopes and a fantastic high-altitude trail with impressive views.
Stage 8: Babino Polje – Plav (21 km and 560 m elevation gain)
On a cloudy morning, I continued my hike and reached another mountain lake, Hridski Jezero. The lake is picturesquely situated in the forest and invites you to linger. Compared to the rest of the long-distance hiking trail, the last section to Plav is relatively unspectacular and somewhat drawn out. I used the time to clear my head of negative thoughts, enjoyed the sounds of nature and admired the beauty of the surroundings with grace.
Another day ended in Plav with culinary highlights in one of the many beautiful restaurants.
Peaks of the Balkans best time to travel
The recommended time to travel to the Peaks of the Balkans is between mid-June and mid-September, with the period from July to the end of August considered the most stable in terms of weather.
I was there myself in the first two weeks of September and had fantastic weather and ideal conditions. The following historical weather graphs from the Balkan Mountains give you a good overview of the weather conditions throughout the year:
Peak of the Balkans – further information
Here you will find further important information about the Peaks of the Balkans!
Money: ATMs and credit cards are accepted in many places. Nevertheless, you should take enough cash with you on your trip.
Tent: There are several official campsites, and you can pitch your tent at many guesthouses. Just ask the owners – for a small fee, this is often possible without any problems.
Route changes: Road construction is currently underway in some regions of the Peaks of the Balkans, which may affect the route. A GPS device is therefore highly recommended.
Water: There are water sources at some points along the way, but they are not always reliable. I therefore recommend that you fill up your water supply at your accommodation before starting each day's stage. If you want to refill your water on the way, you should definitely filter or boil it to be on the safe side.
Peaks of the Balkans border crossing
For the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’ hike, you will be travelling through three independent, non-EU countries. This means you will need permits to cross the borders.
This can be relatively complicated and involve a lot of bureaucracy. Although I was not checked or confronted with any formalities on my tour, I still recommend that you organise all the necessary permits in advance for safety reasons. At the very least, you should always register with the local police.
You can use the service on the official website to apply for permits.
Peaks of the Balkans Bears
Bears live in the area surrounding the Peaks of the Balkans. Encounters are extremely rare, and the probability of encountering a bear is very low.
Nevertheless, you should know how to behave if you do encounter a bear. Tip: Bears sometimes stand on their hind legs – this may seem threatening at first glance, but it does not mean that they are aggressive. In most cases, they simply want to get a better view and use their keen sense of smell to do so.
In this situation, remain calm, behave normally and retreat slowly and without rushing.
Behaviour in bear territory and during encounters
Bears only attack when they are surprised or provoked.
Behave in such a way that the bear notices you early on and is not surprised.
Keep your distance from carcasses and dead animals.
Do not feed bears.
Always keep your dog on a leash.
If you see a bear, do not approach it, remain calm and stand still.
Wait until the bear retreats or slowly move away from its field of vision while maintaining eye contact.
If a bear is about to attack, lie down on the ground, clasp your hands behind your neck and play dead. This way, you will not appear to be a threat. Your rucksack on your back can serve as additional protection.
What you should never do
Run away – not even if it is a mock attack.
Show fear or threat.
Try to scare the bear away.
Throw stones, sticks or other objects.
Take photos or videos.
Further source: PETA
Peaks of the Balkans packing list
Here I recommend the most important hiking equipment that I own, have tested myself and have also bought myself. I pay a lot of attention to the weight and quality of my equipment. The equipment should simply feel good on longer tours and also be light. I can recommend the equipment for women because my wife uses it and it is basically the same as the equipment for men.
Note: Please keep in mind that the packing list is general and you will have to adapt it depending on the season and your needs!
Advertising note: These product links are affiliate links. If you buy something through one of these links, I will receive a small commission without you having to pay more. This is for the maintenance of my blog and you support me with my project, for which I am very grateful. Thank you very much!
Clothes
Hiking boots
Hiking shorts
Long hiking pants
Functional shirt
Hybridjacket
Fleece-jacket
Rain jacket
Functional underwear
Hiking socks
Other hiking equipment:
• Sun cap
Hiking backback (approx. 60 litres or as required)
by EXPED - unfortunately not available on Amazon.
• Backback - Ospray (was my old one and is also good)
Technology and orientation:
• Compass
• Headlamp
• GPS device or GPS watch if necessary
• Binoculars if necessary
Catering:
• Sweets to keep up morale :)
Health & first Aid:
• First Aid (small and light)
• Tape
• Bivouac
• Toilet paper
Other:
• Passport/Insurance certificate
• cash
• Gas cartridge
Film equipment:
• Camera
• Drone
• Tripod
• Clip
To prepare yourself optimally for your hikes, I recommend the workouts on my YouTube channel.
Long-distance hiking trails in Europe: 90 routes, all countries
Safety advice
Peaks of the Balkans map
Here you will find a map of the Peaks of the Balkans, which you can use to get a rough overview for planning purposes. For more detailed planning, I would recommend the map material from Outdooractive and Komoot.
Outdooractive:
Peaks of the Balkans 7 days
The Peaks of the Balkans Trail can also be completed in 7 days – ideal for experienced hikers in good physical condition. You can shorten individual loops and concentrate on the most scenic stages, such as around Theth, Valbona and Dobërdol. With a little logistics, transfers can be planned efficiently so that you can immerse yourself in the wild mountain world of the Western Balkans despite the shortened time.
Peaks of the Balkans 5 days
The Peaks of the Balkans Trail can also be completed in 7 days – ideal for experienced hikers in good physical condition. The combined route from Theth to Plav is particularly suitable, also from a logistical point of view. It connects some of the most spectacular stages of the trail and allows you to enjoy intense nature experiences, cultural insights and overnight stays with traditional host families – without time-consuming detours or complicated transfers.
Peaks of the Balkans on your own
It is perfectly possible to hike the Peaks of the Balkans on your own – provided you do some planning and have a good sense of direction. The route is well marked, accommodation in the villages is usually available, and the people along the way are warm and helpful. Those looking for peace, nature and authentic encounters will love this solo adventure. Transfers and luggage transport can also be easily organised if required.
Peaks of the Balkans Trail
The Peaks of the Balkans Trail is a beautiful hiking route that leads through impressive nature and varied landscapes. It offers a perfect mix of tranquillity, nature and cultural highlights. The route is well signposted and also suitable for hikers of average fitness, although you can adjust the stages individually depending on their length and elevation profile. I wish you a wonderful time and every success.
As always, I would be very happy to receive feedback via one of my channels.
You are also welcome to leave me a comment here.
Hello, I am Christian, the chief globetrotter of this Site and an enthusiastic adventurer, hiker and filmmaker. I love to explore new paths and inspire people with them, and I love to share my hiking knowledge with you! You can also find my videos on YouTube! On my blog you can find tips for beginners and professionals on the greatest and most beautiful hiking tours there are. I want to encourage people to explore the world as a hiker, whether in the countryside, through the forest or in the mountains. True to the motto: If you haven't hiked, you haven't seen the world,
On my blog, I also write about hiking gear, the right summit training and nature conservation, as well as tips and information about hiking.